Feeling a bit scottish in this culottes. To make sure everybody knows I am a woman, I've added a bow.

This is the technical drawing of the outfit I'm making. The top is a simple spaghetti band top. The fabric I'm using for the top looks a bit like a fake leather.

The fabric for the cullotes contains of 10% wool, 5% elastan and 85% polyester. The feeling of the fabric is amazing, really soft!

The culottes have a zipper and a button and two pockets in the front. I also will make a long waistband to make a nice bow.

 

In this illustration I explain how to alter a dart. I've traced from the center and closed the dart. Then I traced the rest of the pattern till the bottom. Now the space of the dart is placed in the bottom of the top, that's why it became more wide. 

This is the result after altering the darts. As you can see, there are no darts anymore because I won't stitch the dart in the bottom. Now I can draw the stylelines on the pattern. I've lowered the neckline of the front and the back to show some more skin. I've also made the armhole a bit wider.

To know how long the straps have to be you can just measure the space between the pattern and the shoulder line (SL). Just count those measurements of the front and back together and you've got your length.

The pattern lies on the fold of the fabric. This way there won't be a seam in the middle. In the post with the blue dress I've explained this so if you wanna know more about this, please check!

First you pin the pieces together and then just sew! I'm sewing with a straigth stitch. The stitch is quite wide because I want as little as possible holes in the fabric. Because the top is not thight, this doesn't matter, it will hold. 

The inner side of the fabric is white. This means that if I fold the fabric and the holes are not on the same spot, you will see white.. I really don't want that ofcourse! That's why I have to be really precise and have to match the holes exactly on each other. This is the time that being a perfectionist really helps!

To get the straps as thin as possible I've cutted a bit of the sides off. Now I can fold both sides in and then fold in half. This way the straps will be thin, but can also hold pressure. Now just sew them into the top and you're ready to go!

Well, except that you should never forget to get rid of those threads..

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I'm using a pants block I made a while ago. I don't want to alter the darts so I can just trace it around.

The block pattern are the black lines. The alterations I did are the blue lines. As you can see I've added pockets, a zipper fly and I've made the legs shorter and wider. I've also drew in the seam allowance which are the red lines. The red notches on the bottom of the waisband represent the places where the darts of the pants are.

With a chalk pencil I'm drawing in the place where the dart ends. Now fold the dart like it has to be sewn. Don't forget to backstitch because it has to hold with pressure.

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This pocket is made with three parts as you can see in the first illustration (1.). First you have to connect A and B (2.). Before folding it to the other side, cut some triangles out because otherwise the fabric won't fold in a curve (3.). Overstitch this (4.). Now you can sew C and B together (5.). For the finishing I locked the seam.

RS= right side of the fabric                   WS = wrong side of the fabric

Match those notches together!

Find all about putting in a zipper in the post with the red top!

I made the waistband stiffer with black vlieseline. I cutted out two waistbands but just added the vlieseline in the back one. Then I sewed the waistbands together and fold them around so the inside and the outside look all clean and neat!

I'm hemming the culottes with a glue that after ironing will keep the hem together. This way there won't be a stitchline. It makes the hemline a bit more stiff which looks good.

For the waistband I cutted out two pieces of fabric and sewn them together. I didn't sew them all the way through so I could turn it around and overstitch it.

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