I always swore I would never make asymmetrical clothes. No idea how this design came out of my hands, but surprisingly it did.
Before you start sewing it's wise to make a technical drawing of the clothes you're planning to make. It's sort of like a maquette, it gives you a more clear idea of what you're putting yourself into. You have to think where the stitches, the zippers, the pockets, the darts and things like that should be.
If you're still not sure if and how it's going to fit, you should make the piece first with mouseline (unbleached cotton) or another cheap fabric with the same fabric stiffness and thickness as the fabric you bought. If that fits you're good to go!
The fabric for the shirt is a light but stiff printed cotton jersey, it has almost no elasticity. The fabric for the pants is a thick woven linen.
As you see I changed the design because the fabrics I'm using are so different, that sewing them together (like in the shirt) won't give a good result. Especially after washing.. I decided to put a zipper in the back of the shirt just because otherwise my head won't fit in..
Because I don't want the pants to be asymmetrical I'm pinning everything exactly in place. Please don't skip the pinning, it could ruin your piece. The pins could best be pinned horizontal because that's easier to get out while sewing. I'm using 1.5 cm seam allowance (about 3/4 inch) and i'm sewing with a straight stitch.
With this fabric it's quite important to lock the seams because the fabric is fraying. And there are two reasons: 1. you don't want to lose your clothes while you're just making an entrance in a club or restaurant, and 2. you don't want to lose little pieces of yarn EVERYWHERE (don't underestimate that!). I'm using a lockmachine for this, but you could also use the zig-zag on your sewing machine.
Sewing the zipper is a hard thing to do. So if it doesn't work out immediatly, don't give up! It will get better in time, just by practicing.
- First you open the zipper and sew the zipper a view inches onto the fly. Exactly how you see it in the picture. When you're sewing for mens clothing you have to reflect it all vertical.
- Push the needle into the fabric, pull the foot up, close the zipper to the other side put the foot down
- Continue sewing
- Be happy because you already understand this one
- Sew the two front pattern parts of the pants together from the crotch till the beginning of the zipper
3. Open up the pieces and sew in the fly (zipper at the back) on the left side of the zipper.
In the picture I've just finished step 3 and now I'm turning the fly over to the other side so I can sew the zipper onto the other piece of the pants
4. Turn the fly over to the other side and sew the other part of the pants to the right side of the zipper
5. Open the pants like you would wear it and overstitch the zipper with the fly folded to the other side of the pants (so you won't stitch over it). Finish with the fly folded back and sew two small stitches to hold the fly in place.
A waistband has normally two sides and to manage that you have to cut every patternpiece twice. To prevent the waistband from stretching I inserted some stickable vlieseline on the innerside of the fabric. In the first picture you see me cutting that out. On the second picture I'm just about to iron the vlieseline onto the fabric and on the third picture I'm ready to start sewing the pieces together.
In the first picture I'm pinning the two sides of the waistband together. I've already sewn the front side of the waistband onto the trousers. If that's done, I can flip the waistband around and finish it off by stitching the waistband.
I'm tracing a self made block. I made this block with my own measurements so it is a perfect fitting for me. If you're using a block you have to keep in mind that the block is really tight fitted, so always add some space if you want to breath. Draw in all the marks as seen on the pattern. They represent the body lines, in this case the bust line, and the darts.
In the first picture I'm drawing in the dart to get the bust fitted. Normally T-shirts don't have a dart here, but because I want this shirt to have a bit more shape I put in the dart above the breast to the shoulder.
In the second picture I've designed the bottom part of the T-shirt. I've added space on both sides of the block pattern to give it some flair. On the picture you see me drawing in the seam allowance.
I'm pinning the pattern onto the fabric so I can cut it out! After this I'm ready to start sewing.
For the finishing I'm using a bias tapemaker you can see in the first picture. While pulling the fabric through the tapemaker immediatly iron the fabric so it stays in the same position. Now you can fold this over the bias and that gives a neat result. See below!
And there it is! The result!