This is the technical drawing of what I'm making next. The dress will contain four different fabrics which is a bit scary for me because that could result in some serious sewing problems.. Well, let's find out!
While sketching I couldn't decide the final look so I decided to just start designing on the stand. This way I could really see it in "real life".
Above you see the stylelines of the dress coming together. It's nice to play around with it, it's stickable so you can change it over and over till you're happy with it.
On the right you see how I transfer the pattern parts onto some mouseline so I can trace it later on paper. Always make sure the mouseline doesn't have any folds!
Before I start tracing I always put a big cutting mat on my table so I won't damage it. With a tracing wheel I trace all the lines I've drawn in. Make sure the mouseline stays in position with pins! After tracing you see the little holes the tracing wheel made on the paper and you can just trace that with a pencil to make the pattern! Don't forget the seam allowance.
The black fabric is a weird fabric with no stretch at all. Maybe not the best choice but it was already in my fabric closet so I decided to give it a shot. The white fabric is a polyester bougth in Japan. It's really thin so you can see through it and that's why I really need to interline it. The lace on top is also made of polyester.
I first put the lace on the stand and then cut the lace with a lot of extra space. Then I sewed the lace on the white fabric. Then I cutted it. If I had already cut it before it would be way harder to sew in. Then I sew those two together with the black fabric which you can see below.
Because I want the print to have a bit of movement I only sewed some outer points of the print together with the white fabric (not the interlining). This is because I don't want the print to fold on the edges. I used a stitch which you can also use for patching a hole in fabric.