This is the technical drawing of the outfit I'm making. The top is a simple spaghetti band top. The fabric I'm using for the top looks a bit like a fake leather.
The fabric for the cullotes contains of 10% wool, 5% elastan and 85% polyester. The feeling of the fabric is amazing, really soft!
The culottes have a zipper and a button and two pockets in the front. I also will make a long waistband to make a nice bow.
In this illustration I explain how to alter a dart. I've traced from the center and closed the dart. Then I traced the rest of the pattern till the bottom. Now the space of the dart is placed in the bottom of the top, that's why it became more wide.
This is the result after altering the darts. As you can see, there are no darts anymore because I won't stitch the dart in the bottom. Now I can draw the stylelines on the pattern. I've lowered the neckline of the front and the back to show some more skin. I've also made the armhole a bit wider.
To know how long the straps have to be you can just measure the space between the pattern and the shoulder line (SL). Just count those measurements of the front and back together and you've got your length.
The inner side of the fabric is white. This means that if I fold the fabric and the holes are not on the same spot, you will see white.. I really don't want that ofcourse! That's why I have to be really precise and have to match the holes exactly on each other. This is the time that being a perfectionist really helps!
The block pattern are the black lines. The alterations I did are the blue lines. As you can see I've added pockets, a zipper fly and I've made the legs shorter and wider. I've also drew in the seam allowance which are the red lines. The red notches on the bottom of the waisband represent the places where the darts of the pants are.
This pocket is made with three parts as you can see in the first illustration (1.). First you have to connect A and B (2.). Before folding it to the other side, cut some triangles out because otherwise the fabric won't fold in a curve (3.). Overstitch this (4.). Now you can sew C and B together (5.). For the finishing I locked the seam.
RS= right side of the fabric WS = wrong side of the fabric