Making a kimono is actually quite easy. Just add some space to the side seam of the bodice block and connect the arm to that point. If you want to be more precise, buy the book: Pattern Cutting for Women's Tailored Jackets: Classic and Contemporary. Written by Winifred Aldrich.
I just love making jeans! It's always so nice to make something of which you know you would want to wear it every day. You can wear it in summer, because the cotton fabric won't get too sweaty and you can wear it in winter because it's suprisingly warm! And, also really important: you can wear it on a bicycle! I just love jeans!
I want to make loose fitting jeans so I have to give the pattern some extra space to make sure it will fit perfect. I've put some extra space in the back, just a view centimeters above the hipline. This extra space also gives extra room to make movements with your hip, so especially riding a bike will be no problem!
First i've sewn the yoke and the back together and overstitched twice with a view millimeters in between to give that typical jeans style seam. Also it's easy to sew the pocket in at this point of the process. Otherwise it might become a struggle to get the pocket on the right place. With chalk I drew a little design detail on the pocket and overstitched it.
The zipper is a bit too long so I had to shorten it. Just cut off a view of those metal pieces and place the top one (the wider one) again on it so your zipper won't run off it. If that bigger one got broken, in most haberdashery you can buy those little bastards. If you want to see how to put in a zipper step by step, you can watch this post.
In this jeans I'm using a straigth waistband. This is different than in the trousers in this post with the culottes. The fit of a straigth waistband is a little bit off, but in case of a loose fitting jeans that won't matter at all. I've ironed some vlieseline into the waistband to give it a bit more strength. Because I don't want it to be too stiff, I only put it on one side.
I only draped one side because you can predict how this will fit in the end. After draping it, I traced the stylelines with a soft pencil so the pattern will still be shown after you take it of the mannequin. The other side of the back will be the exact same pattern, only vertical mirrored.
After tracing the pattern, like I've shown in this post, this is the final pattern of the top. I have to cut the back twice and the front once, on the fold line. The grain, which is the line with the arrows, is different for the back and the front. On the back, I want the lines to be diagonal to match the lines of the fabric. This means I can't just fold the fabric and cut two pieces in once, because then the lines won't be mirrored on the both sides.